Machine for sewing imitation moccasin seams



April 28, 1964 R. F. WRIGHT MACHINE FOR SEWING IMITATION MOCCASIN SEAMS 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 19, 1962 f .55 h-zS/Morney April 28, 1964 R. F. WRIGHT 3,130,695

MACHINE FOR SEWING IMITATION MOCCASIN SEAMS Filed Dec. 19, 1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Z6 a4 -42 1 551;; A iI United States Patent 3,130,695 MACHINE FOR SEWING IMITATION MOCCASIN SEAMS Roy F. Wright, Nashvilie, Tenn, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Boston, Mass, a corporation of New Jersey Filed Dec. 19, 1962, Ser. No. 245,700

3 Claims. (Cl. 112-62) The present invention relates to moccasin-type seam sewing machines and presents an alternative construction having certain limited features of improvement in a machine disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 2,304,964 granted December 15, 1942, on an application filed in the name of Francis R. Speight, and No. 3,081,719, granted March 19, 1963, in the name of Harry B. Fake.

The machine of the prior Speight patent is intended to operate on the beveled edges of a top piece and vamp for a shoe upper to sew the edges together with a moccasintype scam, the two parts being clamped rigidly throughout an extensive area about the sewing point and forced firmly into an apex defined by angularly disposed surfaces within a work support and similarly disposed surfaces on a presser acting to crowd the beveled edges of the parts together at the apex of the work support. The machine of the Fake patent is intended to insert an imitation moccasin-type seam in a one-piece shoe upper rather than in a two-piece upper. Because the presser in clamping the work in the machine of the Speight patent causes parallel compression of the work, tending to force the two pieces of the work into the apex of the work support, in an attempt to utilize the same machine for inserting a seam in a one-piece vamp tends to produce irregularities in the stitches and insufficient control of the material engaged by the stitch-forming devices, so that there is a likelihood for the stitches to be pulled through the material and the work damaged. Accordingly, the work support of the machine in the Fake patent has been formed with its work-engaging surfaces extending relatively to each other at an angle substantially greater than in the machine of the Speight patent and the internal presser of the Fake machine has its work-engaging surfaces disposed at a substantially smaller angle than those on the work support, thus causing thickuesswise pressure to be concentrated on the upper at the apex of the angle in the work support rather than parallel pressure to be applied to the upper along areas of the upper at a distance from the apex in the work support as in the Speight machine. In this way better control is obtained in the Fake machine for guiding the work at the apex during penetration of the needle and a more uniform seam results for a one-piece upper.

An object of the present invention is to enable sewing a one-piece upper by the use of a work support and presser, the work-engaging surfaces of which are disposed at substantially the same angle as found in the two-piece upper sewing machine of the Speight patent, so that even though the work is compressed in a direction parallel to its surfaces, there is no tendency for the stitches to pull through the work and a uniform appearance with new and unexpected ornamental features results. A further object is to simplify and render less expensive the construction of a machine for inserting an imitation moccasin-type seam in a one-piece shoe upper, while retaining all of the desirable benefits obtained from the construction of the machine disclosed in the Fake patent. To these ends the present invention resides in a curved needle machine for inserting a two-thread lock stitch moccasin-type seam, the threads of which enter and emerge from the same side of a single work piece of material without penetrating through the other side, the machine having a two-part 3,i3,h95 Patented Apr. 28, 1964 work support provided with work-engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an internal angle and a presser having similarly disposed external work-engaging surfaces movable to clamp the work and to release it between stitches, in which machine there is provided a spacing plate clamped between the parts of the work support and iocated to project into the apex of the angle of the work support to form a work indenting anvil against which the work is compressed by the presser to form a channel in the work piece during penetration of the needle. With this construction the work is held securely in a shape conforming to the path of the needle and preferably, the outer edge of the spacing plate is rounded to produce thread supporting shoulders in the path of the needle. The advantage of such construction is that the shoulders provide support for the exposed threads of the stitches.

These and other features, as hereinafter described and claimed, will readily be apparent to those skilled in the art from the following detailed specification and drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a sectional view, taken along the line 1-1 of FIG. 6, of portions of a work support and a presser shown clamping a one-piece shoe upper in the operating path of a curved needle and a curved awl contained in a machine embodying features of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a view in right side elevation, on an enlarged scale, showing the pointed end portion of the awl of the machine in FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a view in elevation looking at the end portion of the awl from a point inside its curvature;

FIG. 4 is a still further enlarged View looking directly at the end of the awl;

FIG. 5 is a perspective view of a spacing plate embodied in the machine;

FIG. 6 is a sectional plan view of the parts shown in FIG. 1, taken along the lines VI-VI of that figure; and

FIG. 7 is a perspective view on an enlarged scale showing the outer side of an ornamental seam inserted by the machine.

The machine of the present invention is for the purpose of inserting a two-thread lock stitch imitation mOCCaEfIltype seam in a one-piece shoe upper, the threads of which enter and emerge from the outer side of the upper without causing the threads to be exposed inside the upper. Such seam is illustrated in FIG. 7 wherein the exposed threads 8 and 1t) lie in parallel relation along the work between perforations 12 in a work piece 14 comprising a portion of a shoe upper. The contour or grain surface of the uper is ornamented by directing the line of stitches in a pattern of horseshoe or other shape on the upper, simulating that appearance resulting when a moccasin vamp and separate toe plug are joined together by a moccasin seam.

As explained in the prior Fake patent, a machine for operating on the parts of a two-piece moccasin type upper is arranged to squeeze the edges firmly together by pressure exerted in a direction parallel to the surfaces of the upper at an apex of an internal angle formed in a work support. When the edges are squeezed together they tend to expand and for this purpose adequate space is provided in the Speight machine at the apex of an internal angle formed by the work engaging surfaces of the work support. To accommodate different thicknesses of work the work support is divided into separate blocks along a plane bisecting the angle between the surfaces and replaceable spacing plates of different thicknesses are substituted one for another when different thicknesses of work are met.

When a one piece upper is to be operated upon it is necessary to bend the work into an angle the same as that between thework engaging surfaces of the work support and while so doing if the upper is clamped with pressure parallel to the surfaces it is crowded into the apex of the angle and there may be more space provided than required. Under these conditions the upper may become displaced from a uniform position along the bend, so that the needle may no longer pass through it in the desired relation. Thus, the stitch forming devices operating upon the work along the bend may not engage the work uniformly and the best results are not obtained. To avoid these conditions the machine of the Fake patent is provided with a work support formed with work engaging surfaces having between them an internal angle substantially greater than that provided by the machine of the Speight patent. For instance, the machine of the Speight patent has its work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle of approximately 60, whereas, in the Fake machine the angle of the work engaging surfaces of the work support is at least 90. By increasing the angle of bend in the work there is less crowding of the work by parallel pressure into the bend, so that more uniform clamping action occurs. Furthermore, in the machine of the Fake patent a presser, which clamps the work against the work support, has its work engaging surfaces disposed at an angle substantially less than that between the surfaces of the work support, an example of the angle on the presser in the Fake machine being given as 80. Thus, it is possible to clamp the work more securely along the apex of the angle into which it is bent than otherwise would be possible, uniform engagement of the needle or awl being insured.

The illustrated machine is similar in most respects to that of the Speight patent, above referred to, and has a curved hook needle 16, a curved work feeding awl 18, a presser 2d, a work support 22, and other stitch forming and work feeding devices of conventional construction. The awl is first actuated across the angle of the work engaging surfaces of the work support from beneath the work and at the right side of the needle to form a perforation for the needle and then moves toward the left to bring it into line with the needle and to feed the work a stitch length. The awl is then withdrawn from the work and the needle acting from above the work follows it closely into the perforation. After the awl withdraws from the work it is backfed the length of a stitch and again forms a new perforation.

As in the machine of the Speight patent, the present work support 22 has work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an internal angle of 60 and the presser co-operating with the work support has external work engaging surfaces similarly disposed, but as illustrated, the presser is formed with an angle to degrees greater while extending in the direction of work feed. The presser is movable toward and from the work support to clamp and to release the work for feeding movement between the successive stitches. In clamping the work pressure is imparted by the presser to the work in a direction parallel to its outside surfaces as in the Speight machine. To provide space for expansion of the material displaced by the needle and awl in the machine of the Speight patent the tip of the presser is formed with transverse needle and awl receiving notches, indicated at 24 and 26 (FIG. 6). The material of the upper displaced by the needle and awl during their passage through the work may enter these notches without causing the inner or flesh surface of the upper to be penetrated or the thread in the stitches to be exposed inside the upper. Also, as in the prior Speight patent the work support 22 is composed of two separate blocks secured together with a spacing plate interposed between them, the parts of the work support being divided along a plane bisecting the angle between the work engaging surfaces of the work support. The two blocks of the present work support are divided along a plane indicated by a line 28 in FIG. 1, bisecting the angle of the work engaging surfaces on the work support. The blocks are held together by a'pair of screws 3t) passing through a block 32 and the upper shank of the work support 22 forming the other block. The spacing plate between the blocks is indicated at 34 and is also held in place by the clamp screws 30.

In order to insure proper clamping action along the bend formed in the work piece 14 by the work support and presser of the present machine, as a result of parallel compression along the surface of the work piece, the illustratedspacing plate 34 forms an integral indenting anvil of greater thickness than the remainder of the spacing plate 34. The indenting anvil has an enlarged edge 36, the outer surface of which is convexly rounded and projects a substantial distance into the apex of the internal angle in the work support to impress with a concave channel 38 (FIG. 7) the outer surface of the bend in the work piece. The indenting anvil thus forms a concentrated gripping surface against which the work is impressed and clamped by the presser, so that it is held securely at a critical area during penetration of the needle and awl.

To assist in impressing the channel 3% the presser has formed along its tip a groove 37 (FIG. 1) into conformity with which the indenting anvil of the plate deflects the material of the work piece. In this way an exact and uniform appearance is produced throughout the seam, as shown in FIG. 7.

The convexity of the anvil edge 36 not only forms the concave channel 38 but also causes the upper to bulge above and below the spacing plate to provide abrupt shoulders at opposite sides of the plane indicated by the line 28, into which shoulders the needle and awl may enter more nearly at right angles than otherwise possible while forming the seam. Also, as the thread is drawn into position by the machine the shoulders 40 assist appreciably in supporting the exposed threads in uniform parallel relation and maintain the width of seam uniformly throughout its length.

To accentuate the formation of the thread supporting shoulders 46 at opposite sides of the anvil the work engaging surfaces of the work support nearest to the apex within the angle are provided with recesses 42. The recesses not only provide space for material of the work piece to be forced by pressure of the presser in forming the shoulders ll but also avoid the formation of irregular indentations in the outer surface of the upper between the threads of the seam as a result of foreign material or segments of the work torn loose by the needle or awl while penetrating the work.

To improve alinement of the exposed threads in the stitches in order to insure they will extend in straight lines intersecting the perforations 12 and thereby to improve the uniformity of the seam, the curved awl 18 is sharpened with a cutting edge 44 (see FIGS. 2, 3 and 4) extending in the direction of work feed. The cutting edge 44 is produced by the intersection of two plane surfaces 46 and 48 and, if desired, the ends of the cutting edge are smoothed by bevels St The surface 46 outside the curvature of the awl is larger than the surface 48, so that the cutting edge id is inside the center line of the awl. For this reason the awl as it enters the work is not displaced-outwardly but tends to move with its cutting edge uniformly within its natural curvature.

in other respects the upper of a shoe after being sewn on the present machine is stretched, in conforming the upper to a shoe shape while tensioning it over a last, or otherwise straightened out to accentuate the formation of characteristic raised enlargements and depressions. In this way, the characteristic configurations are intensified beyond the extent to which they are capable of being produced by a hand sewn seam.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and a particular embodiment having been described, What is claimed is:

1. A machine for inserting a two-thread lock stitch moccasin type seam, the threads (8, 1t!) of which enter and emerge from the same side of a single piece (14) of work material without penetrating through to the other side, said machine having a two-part work support provided with work engaging surfaces disposed with relation to each other and extending in the direction of work feed to form an internal angle, the parts (22, 32) of the work support being divided along a plane (28) bisecting the angle between the work engaging surfaces, a presser (20) having similarly disposed Work engaging surfaces along its sides movable toward and from the work support to form a convex bend in the work piece While clamping it in conformity with the apex of the work support and with a groove (37) along its tip arranged to be bridged by the bend in the work piece, said presser being movable also to release the work piece for feeding movement between stitches, and stitch forming devices including a curved needle (16) movable across the angle of the work engaging surfaces on the work support, in combination with a spacing plate (34) located between the parts of the work support with an enlarged edge (36) projecting into the apex of the internal angle of the Work support to form a work indenting anvil against which the bend in the work 6 piece is impressed by the presser with a re-entrant channel (33) conforming with the groove at the tip of the presser during penetration of the needle.

2. A machine for inserting a two-thread lock stitch moccasin type seam, as in claim 1, in which the work indenting anvil on the spacing plate is convexly rounded along edge (36) and arranged to act with the work support to produce a concave channel (38) with abrupt thread supporting shoulders (49) outside the bend of the work piece, along which shoulders the exposed threads (3, 10) of the stitches are laid during work feed.

3. A machine for inserting a two-thread lock stitch moccasin type seam, as in claim 2, in which the edge (36) is enlarged and is thicker than the remainder of the spacing plate and the work support has recesses (42) at opposite sides of the anvil, into which the material of the work piece is forced by pressure of the presser to accentuate the thread supporting shoulders (40).

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,399,159 Ashworth Apr. 30, 1946 2,415,401 Ashworth Feb. 11, 1947 2,525,858 Boothroyd Oct. 17, 1950 2,902,955 Dunkerly Sept. 8, 1959 3,056,363 Bergeron Oct. 2, 1962 3,081,719 Fake Mar. 19, 1963 

1. A MACHINE FOR INSERTING A TWO-THREAD LOCK STITCH MOCCASIN TYPE SEAM, THE THREADS (8, 10) OF WHICH ENTER AND EMERGE FROM THE SAME SIDE OF A SINGLE PIECE (14) OF WORK MATERIAL WITHOUT PENETRATING THROUGH TO THE OTHER SIDE, SAID MACHINE HAVING A TWO-PART WORK SUPPORT PROVIDED WITH WORK ENGAGING SURFACES DISPOSED WITH RELATION TO EACH OTHER AND EXTENDING IN THE DIRECTION OF WORK FEED TO FORM AN INTERNAL ANGLE, THE PARTS (22, 32) OF THE WORK SUPPORT BEING DIVIDED ALONG A PLANE (28) BISECTING THE ANGLE BETWEEN THE WORK ENGAGING SURFACES, A PRESSER (20) HAVING SIMILARLY DISPOSED WORK ENGAGING SURFACES ALONG ITS SIDES MOVABLE TOWARD AND FROM THE WORK SUPPORT TO FORM A CONVEX BEND IN THE WORK PIECE WHILE CLAMPING IT IN CONFORMITY WITH THE APEX OF THE WORK SUPPORT AND WITH A GROOVE (37) ALONG ITS TIP ARRANGED TO BE BRIDGED BY THE BEND IN THE WORK PIECE, SAID PRESSER BEING MOVABLE ALSO 